I've been shopping around for a little Ford Ranger, since my current truck is just wrecking my wallet at the pump. I had also made a post about this awhile back, but forgot a few things, so I thought I would make a thread about it. I'm not a financial expert, but I am a diesel mechanic that knows a few things about gasoline vehicles. I'll divide this into sections for ease of use.
Preparing to buy, and a few considerations:
- Consider why you're buying the vehicle. A vehicle either moves your body from point A to B, or it makes you money, typically through the hauling of cargo. A vehicle that hauls cargo can make you money, and that requires a different purchasing mindset than the former type of vehicle, one that moves your body back and forth. If that is the type of vehicle you're buying, something to get back and forth, just remember that its a liability, a depreciating item, and thusly it makes little sense to go into debt on a liability. That brand new charger may look cool, but financially, its a very foolish buying decision.
Financing. You should avoid at all costs getting financed through a dealership. Go to a credit union and get pre-approval, you'll then know what your purchasing range is, and you'll receive more favorable interest rates. This is a good time to say that while the system of credit sucks ass, its what we have to deal with, so get your credit rating right.
Choosing from whom to buy: There are merits to buying from either a dealership, or a private seller, you'll have to choose which one suits you. If its a dealership, check their reviews. If their review page is full of people that were scammed, don't go to that dealership.
Arriving at the dealership: So you've selected the dealership, cool, a few things to bear in mind. Firstly, wear street clothes, we'll get to this in a bit. Next, the dealership does not need to know what you were pre-approved for at the CU. They will probably ask, but its only because it will give them a target price. You should have in mind what kind of vehicle you want, and for what purpose, and then go look at those vehicles. Don't wander around and set yourself up for an impulse purchase. Found an interesting car? Read on.
Inspecting the car: First thing you should do is get down on the ground, literally, on the ground, and then check under the vehicle for rust. If its rusty, walk way. I've heard of too many people thinking they were getting a great deal on this shiny, low milage car, only to learn a month down the road that the bottom is rusted out and the vehicle is a death trap. That kind of chasis rust is terminal for a vehicle. CHECK FOR RUST.
- Next, take the car to mechanic's shop, but while you're driving, listen to it, watch the tach for when it shifts, every adult has driven enough that you ought to be able to pick out funny sounds, or if its shifting funny. Once at the mechanic's shop, have them check the compression, oil pressure, and have them look for hydro carbons in the coolant. A little more info:
-Compression is what your pistons make on the power stroke, high compression, with comparable PSI levels across the cylinders is good indicator that your cylinders, piston rings and head are in good shape.
-Oil pressure; good oil pressure is a good indicator that your main bearings are in good shape. Oil pumps do not make oil pressure. Your bearings create the pressure by resisting the flow the pump creates.
-Coolant test strips; hydro carbons in the coolant is a good indicator that you either have a cracked cylinder, cracked block or a blown head gasket. Hydro carbons are a combustion bi-product and have no business being in the coolant.
- I know this part is a long-winded, but these three tests together give a pretty good indication of the engine's health. If the engine has good compression that's mostly even across the cylinders, good oil pressure and no hydro carbons, you probably got a good engine on your hands. I would strongly suggest that you have these tests done. It is worth the time and money because engine problems are almost never cheap to fix. Onto the next part.
Purchasing. This is the part that I have the least to say about. Some people have had their asses saved by warranties. But I can also say that a huge number of people just getting raked over the coals because of the warranties. So keep in mind that it is very easy for them to tack on another 3k $ just in warranties, but wait, it's even more than that because it will also mean that you're gonna pay more in interest rates. Choose very wisely.
- I can say that for me personally, if the vehicle's engine health checks out, and the shifting is smooth on the transmission, I'm not really worried about warranties.
If you have any questions, feel free to PM
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i want to sign up for both,
or either one.
but for some reason it won't accept my credit card or debit card.
waahhh.
meaning the numbers i put in is not accepted..there's a red marker that is saying basically not right numbers.
what— I"m p
Preparing to buy, and a few considerations:
- Consider why you're buying the vehicle. A vehicle either moves your body from point A to B, or it makes you money, typically through the hauling of cargo. A vehicle that hauls cargo can make you money, and that requires a different purchasing mindset than the former type of vehicle, one that moves your body back and forth. If that is the type of vehicle you're buying, something to get back and forth, just remember that its a liability, a depreciating item, and thusly it makes little sense to go into debt on a liability. That brand new charger may look cool, but financially, its a very foolish buying decision.
Financing. You should avoid at all costs getting financed through a dealership. Go to a credit union and get pre-approval, you'll then know what your purchasing range is, and you'll receive more favorable interest rates. This is a good time to say that while the system of credit sucks ass, its what we have to deal with, so get your credit rating right.
Choosing from whom to buy: There are merits to buying from either a dealership, or a private seller, you'll have to choose which one suits you. If its a dealership, check their reviews. If their review page is full of people that were scammed, don't go to that dealership.
Arriving at the dealership: So you've selected the dealership, cool, a few things to bear in mind. Firstly, wear street clothes, we'll get to this in a bit. Next, the dealership does not need to know what you were pre-approved for at the CU. They will probably ask, but its only because it will give them a target price. You should have in mind what kind of vehicle you want, and for what purpose, and then go look at those vehicles. Don't wander around and set yourself up for an impulse purchase. Found an interesting car? Read on.
Inspecting the car: First thing you should do is get down on the ground, literally, on the ground, and then check under the vehicle for rust. If its rusty, walk way. I've heard of too many people thinking they were getting a great deal on this shiny, low milage car, only to learn a month down the road that the bottom is rusted out and the vehicle is a death trap. That kind of chasis rust is terminal for a vehicle. CHECK FOR RUST.
- Next, take the car to mechanic's shop, but while you're driving, listen to it, watch the tach for when it shifts, every adult has driven enough that you ought to be able to pick out funny sounds, or if its shifting funny. Once at the mechanic's shop, have them check the compression, oil pressure, and have them look for hydro carbons in the coolant. A little more info:
-Compression is what your pistons make on the power stroke, high compression, with comparable PSI levels across the cylinders is good indicator that your cylinders, piston rings and head are in good shape.
-Oil pressure; good oil pressure is a good indicator that your main bearings are in good shape. Oil pumps do not make oil pressure. Your bearings create the pressure by resisting the flow the pump creates.
-Coolant test strips; hydro carbons in the coolant is a good indicator that you either have a cracked cylinder, cracked block or a blown head gasket. Hydro carbons are a combustion bi-product and have no business being in the coolant.
- I know this part is a long-winded, but these three tests together give a pretty good indication of the engine's health. If the engine has good compression that's mostly even across the cylinders, good oil pressure and no hydro carbons, you probably got a good engine on your hands. I would strongly suggest that you have these tests done. It is worth the time and money because engine problems are almost never cheap to fix. Onto the next part.
Purchasing. This is the part that I have the least to say about. Some people have had their asses saved by warranties. But I can also say that a huge number of people just getting raked over the coals because of the warranties. So keep in mind that it is very easy for them to tack on another 3k $ just in warranties, but wait, it's even more than that because it will also mean that you're gonna pay more in interest rates. Choose very wisely.
- I can say that for me personally, if the vehicle's engine health checks out, and the shifting is smooth on the transmission, I'm not really worried about warranties.
If you have any questions, feel free to PM